SS18 MFW: The Round Up
The third leg to this fashionable four parter take us back to where it all started; Milan. Home to some of the biggest and oldest fashion houses in the world, we take a look at some of the best shows across the extravagant week.
How can we round up Milan Fashion Week without talking about Gucci? Opening the week, Alessandro Michele continued with his reputable maximalist approach. Since his surprise appointment as Creative Director at Gucci in 2015, Michele has gained a worldwide following for his eclectic understanding of the fashion house. Staged at the brands headquarters, just on the outskirts of the city, Michele had models strutting through a long pathway edged with faux antiques; think Mayan temples and Roman statues. As expected Michelle’s collection included everything; reptile motifs to leopard prints, bomber jackets to printed trouser suits. The standout pieces had a 70’s glam rock vibe – a leather suit decorated in musical notes and a purple sequined suit with lime green snakes. Accessories came in the form of crystal encrusted sunglasses and Stormtrooper-esque skull caps, as well as tiaras worn as necklaces layered with costume jewellery in the form of the ‘GG’ motif.
The working woman’s favourite, Max Mara, kicked off last Thursday morning with homage to summer in the city. The Italian brand has been courting a younger, more casual customer of late - trouser suits catered for both the mature and the more contemporary customer, appearing in easy-to-wear heavy cottons as well as more daring sheer fabrics. Many classic ideas were given a modern twist; trouser suits also became boiler suits, trench coats became trench skirts, and culottes came with belts of shredded fabric worn around the waist which hung like a skirt. The brands well known camel coats were even showcased in floral printed terry towelling with matching dresses. There were still plenty of pencil skirts, chic knitwear and timeless outwear to keep the core Max Mara fans happy.
In memory of the late Italian fashion designer and founder of Versace, Gianni Versace, Donatella Versace reunited with the original cast of ‘90s supermodels for a special 20th anniversary showcase and it was all anyone was talking about. Pictured across every social media channel known, Donatella’s show was homage to her brother, pulling from his archive key prints from 1991-1995, shown in capsule print collections on the catwalk. Donatella reinterpreted the iconic leggings, blouses, square shouldered jackets and catsuits, with Kaia Gerber modelling the print her mother Cindy Crawford wore in the ‘90s. The finale revealed Gianni’s favourite 90s supermodels in an epic style. Hand in hand with Donatella, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni and Helena Christensen strutted down the runway each donning a gold Versace chainmail gown. It warmed our hearts and truly was the best tribute to her brother.
Black Swan to biker chic to models dressed as bouquets, Moschino’s Jeremy Scott never disappoints. Kaia Gerber opened proceedings; a common theme this year, in a tutu teamed with a leather jacket, pony logo tee and biker boots and was swiftly followed by the Hadid sisters in similar styles. All models wore short cropped wings and studs came on everything, from leather collar necklaces to knee-high boots. The second section of the collection got seriously floral. After a model emerged dressed as a tulip, she was followed by a lily, a bunch of roses and trouser suits that resembled meadows. To finish it all off, Kaia Gerber and Gigi Hadid reappeared dressed as a bunch of flowers - literally. Although the frocks were a spark of madness, there was something weirdly perfect about the collection.
German minimalist brand, Jil Sander brought a collection that was spiritual in presentation; think white cotton shirting and priest like surplices accompanied by stripped back modern tailoring. It was the debut collection for husband and wife, Lucie and Luke Meier since their predecessor Rodolfo Paglialunga left. The collection felt the closest to the original collections by Sander herself in the early 2000’s. The pair showed tightly edited palettes, easy tailored silhouettes with narrow shoulders, creased arms and slit panelled coats, sometimes seen over long shirtdresses. It was a promising start for the duo and it will be interesting to see how their future collections develop.
You couldn’t find a more contrasting aesthetic to the tranquillity of Jil Sanders than that of Italian fashion house, Dolce & Gabbana. In an attempt to introduce the brand’s signatures to a new younger audience, a secret fashion show for an invited millennial crowd was held the night before the big show. There was also a pop up ‘open catwalk’ at the city’s La Rinascente, where lucky shoppers saw models roaming around the department store in the ultra-luxe garms Dolce & Gabbana are so well known for. The main event, however, was titled ‘Queen of Hearts’ and featured a backdrop of playing cards. Wearing glittered, embroidered or chiffon dresses, with instagramable crowns on their heads or red roses in their hair, Dolce & Gabbana’s queens of hearts came down the runway in all colours, shapes and textures. Some of the Italian duos greatest hits were shown amongst the collection including the impressive baroque embroideries and prom dresses printed with Sicilian fruit. Simplicity was prized at the finale where models reappeared in the sensuous le dolce vita black lingerie; a nod to the importance of love over possessions. Whilst staying true to their lace heritage the underwear inspired garments attracted the attention of generation X and Y.
After a truly amazing week in Milan, it’s time to put our beret on and watch Paris Fashion Week explode. With the likes of Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and Chloe all presenting their SS18 collection, we can’t wait to see the French Maisons wrap up the SS18 collections. Bon voyage!